On at the Museo Nazionale Alinari della fotografia in Florence May 2012 is a rare Brian Duffy exhibition.
Duffy was instrumental in leading the new English avant-garde in fashion photography. With David Bailey and Terence Donovan, Duffy dominated the fresh, vibrant new style of fashion photography that encapsulated the mood and energy of the Swinging Sixties. These cockney lads defined a new era and fashion models now leapt off the pages with exuberance and verve, bringing to the fore street photography and ending the stayed conservative 50s style.
This exhibition shows Duffy’s iconic 60s fashion photograhs for Vogue, French Elle and Queen Magazines, as well as witty classic adverts for Benson and Hedges.
Arresting, immediately striking and full of movement and drama, are the gorgeous models that strike glamorous poses against exquisite Florentine landmarks. A model almost directs traffic as she splays out her enormous A line dog tooth coat on Via Tornabuoni and a coquettish model stylishly swivels against the collonade arches close to the Uffizi museum.
Ernest and cool, hip and youthful are the depictions of a Michael Caine, John Lennon and Sidney Poitier. Sultry and chic are the pouting beauties Jean Shrimpton, Jane Birkin and Ursula Andress.
A steely Debbie Harry, barely clad but full of ironic teenage angst is a marked contrast to the steamy Pirelli calendar girls who maturely tease their audience with arty props.
Finally we are left with some of his later photographs – classic David Bowie Album covers for Aladdin Sane and a photo shoot for Scary Monsters (and Super Creeps) that surely adorn every Bowie fans collection.
Duffy had a star studded dazzling client base, many of whom would frequent his hub of creativity in Swiss Cottage. A north London cockney from Irish stock who was notorious for being difficult to work for, a moody maverick – whose lack of charm and distanced approach made him enigmatic and exciting to work with. Anti-authority and destined to rock a few boats, yet loved by the luvvies.
Joanna Lumley was one of his favourite models and according to Lumley in those days the photographer was the talent not the model. It was a different era, when models brought along their own clothes and make up.
This exhibition is a rare insight into a truly talented photographer who revolutionised fashion photography. He was particularly known for his ability to discover new techniques and pioneer these techniques.
A documentary made shortly before his death in May 2010 revealed that behind the cool facade he was after all rather self deprecating, he had burnt many of his negatives in a fit of pique and said that he merely aimed to be very competent at what he did. He said he would not have described his photographs as great.
The fashion world and new world of art photography no doubt would beg to differ. His photographs led a new wave and style in photography.
Like some of his subjects; this photographer was a legend
Check it out at http://www.mnaf.it/eng/mostre.php